Noble Chios

Resin drop from a mastica tree. It has a very special aroma and many healing properties.Last to be discovered, is it kills the stomach ulcer virus.

Not all Greek islands are the much publicized combination of whitewashed houses ,barren hills and bright blue seas. This is the Cyclades signature. To the East of the Aegean ,near the western coast of Turkey,lies Chios, one of the large "aristocratic" islands (along with Lesvos and Samos).
In contrast to the Cyclades, these islands are green and fertile,with numerous villages and a distinct architectural style,resembling in many cases Tuscany in Italy. People here grew rich through the ages by sea trade and by the unique product of mastic.

Kampos,near the city of Chios,is the place where the wealthy had their summer homes and their orchards. Many of the beautiful houses are now small, cosy hotels.

I first visited Chios in the 80s, to baptize the daughter of a friend. Yeh! I became a godmother! All I remember is walking through the city of Chios and having to drink a shot of cognac and/or raki with EVERY member of my friends extended family. After the second shot I was in a zombie state (the "kerasma",the offer of drink and/or food, starts early in the morning *hic* and goes on until late in the night FOR DAYS *hic* )
Four years ago I returned with my husband determined to see all that I missed before.We chose to stay on the west side of the island,where the pines reach the sea-the eastern part is more bare and more populated.

View from our room in Volissos towards the west and the sea.

The village we chose as a base is Volissos,perched safely behind a couple of green hills. From there we covered the whole west of the island, from the almost deserted little villages on the wild north to the wealthy medieval Masticochoria in the south.  

Chios is an island where a car or a motorcycle are a must. There is so much to see, I wouldn't advise just relaxing for days on a beach...although it is a really good idea and Chios has plenty of  beautiful beaches.

Volissos

All the west part of the island is carved with one beach after the other. Don't expect umbrellas and soft drinks in most of them,but I'm happy to report also that there are some really good beach bars in the area ;) On the other hand, if you love having a whole stretch of sand and sea to yourself, you are in the right place.



Chios city,where the ship from Pireaus docks, is bursting with life. Countless places to stay or eat,cafeterias and Internet cafes,cars and shops and all that...
A short drive from there are the quite seaside tavernas...and yes,on the top right of the picture are octopus legs drying in the sun!! They will be later barbecued on coals and served with olive oil,vinegar and oregano.
Chio's ouzo and "spoonful sweets" are famous and delicious!! The housewives of Chios are reputed to be exceptionally skilled in making preserves and various kinds of sweets with an elegant Eastern influence. They specialize in the really challenging achievement of making sweet preserve from lemon tree blossoms,without the blossoms disintergrating in the syrop.

As in many other parts of Greece, Chios passed from one overlord to the other. Romans,Byzantines,Italians from Genova,Ottoman Turks all left influences,temples,castles,mansions and fortified villages. Chios is one of the parts of Greece claiming to be Homer's birth place. And to be honest it is most propable that the blind bard was really born there.

Taking the inland roads,there are various old villages with stone houses and little churches,like Avgonima. The local taverna has excellent food and breathtaking views.

Avgonima

Starting from the center of the island towards the South are the famous Mastica-villages,the only place where the mastica trees produce resin. Before expertly "wounding" the bark of the trees, the ground is meticulously cleared and prepared with a special white powder. 

Mastica tree's resin is used in medicine,cosmetics and cooking. Chios is the only place in the world  Pistacea Lentiscus produces resin. Greeks,Romans,Genovese and Ottomans gave Chios inhabitants special tax privileges to insure their mastica supplies.

The 22 mastica-villages are some distance from the sea to be safe from invading looters. Some are build to withstand pirate attacks,as the whole Mediteranean had been ravaged by pirates for centuries!!! Most beautiful of these villages are Mesta, the medieval and Pyrgi, the painted one, where all the houses are white with grey patterns. 
The narrow streets are cool during the mid-day heat and the coffee in the small shops is excellent.

Chios is for everyone.Families,couples,groups of friends,or single travelers looking for adventure in a serene and hospitable place. There is much to see around. 
It is easily accessible from Athens both by plane and by boat. 
If you happen to be there during the Spring and Easter holidays,you are in for a treat...or a scare! :0

What??Who are these invaders?? To arms....errrmmm...horns ,mates!!!

After hours of site seeing a nap under the protection of the pine tree is a blessing ;]