Ανοιξη στην Ανδρο/Springtime in Andros

Η Χώρα, μοναδικά χτισμένη στην ανατολική, ανεμοδαρμένη πλευρά του νησιού.
The capital of Andros, Chora, build to the eastern side of the island.

Δεν ξέρω γιατί είχαμε "αγνοήσει" τόσα χρόνια την Άνδρο...

Κάθε που ψάχναμε νησί γιά εξερεύνηση η άραγμα, περνούσε η ματιά μας πάνω της, χωρίς να σταματάει.

Και μείναμε άναυδοι τη Μεγάλη εβδομάδα, ανακαλύπτοντας στην καρδιά ενός κλασσικού Κυκλαδίτικου νησιού, ένα κομμάτι Πήλιο, "κομπλέ" με πηγες, καταρράκτες και όσο πράσινο δεν διαθετουν ολες οι υπόλοιπες Κυκλάδες μαζί!

Οι πηγές του Διονύσου στις Μένητες,ποτίζουν τα περιβόλια.Παλιά υδροδοτούσαν τη Χώρα.
The springs of Dionysus at Menites.

I don't really know why we have never thought of visiting Andros, the northernmost of the Cyclades. And a week ago we have been soooo pleasantly surprised to discover an island like no other!

Yes, Andros has the classical Aegean coastline, rocky to the East and full of beautiful sandy beaches to the West. The island has, of course, the usual barren, windswept hills, where herds of goats allow only very tough low vegetation to survive, BUT

in the heart of Andros there are mountains full of springs, creeks, small waterfalls and all the greenery the other Cyclades lack!!!

Καταρράκτες κατεβαίνουν από το βουνο πάνω από την Παλαιόπολη.Waterfalls cascading over Palaiopoli, the iron age capital of the island, now under the sea.

 Πέντε ορεινούς όγκους έχει το νησί με πλατάνια, βελανιδιές και καρυδιές.Στις πλαγιές τους χωριά και περιβόλια με πορτοκαλιές, ελιές, αμπέλια και μποστάνια προστατευμένα πίσω από σειρές κυπαρισσιών.
 Στο Νότο, ανάμεσα στα όρη Πέταλο και Γερακώνα η καταπράσινη κοιλάδα της Μεσσαριάς οδηγει στή Χώρα. Η οποία Χώρα, δεν είναι χτισμενη στο ψηλότερο σημείο, όπως συνηθιζόταν γιά αιώνες στο Αιγαίο των πειρατών, αλλά σε μια εξ ίσου απόρθητη θέση: στην ανεμοδαρμένη ανατολική πλευρά του νησιού.

More than 50 picturesque villages are perched on the slopes of no less than 5 mountains-the tallest peak is 1003 m-and between them strategically planted cypresses "break down" the fury of the winds and provide shelter to groves of olive trees, oranges,

 lemons, almond trees, grapes and flowers. My all time Spring favorite, the lilac bush, thrives with all this lovely water and coolness.  

Easter has passed and we have survived! Yipiiiiiii!!!

Just across the street from our hotel, well hallo guys!

Χωριά το ένα δίπλα στο άλλο ,τα περισσότερα κρεμασμένα στις πλαγιές,αλλού με κεραμίδια στις σκεπές και μπαλκόνια με μαρμάρινα φουρούσια, αλλού με ασβεστωμένες Κυκλαδίτικες αυλίτσες απέναντι στο πέλαγος. Πανταχού παρόν ο κρυσταλλικος σχιστόλιθος-ο ιδιος που "κρατάει" τα νερά -φτιάχνει ξερολιθιές ,τις "αιμασιές" οπως τις λένε οι ντόπιοι, μαντριά, ξωκκλήσια, περιστεριώνες, γεφύρια και νερόμυλους.

Stenies, just 5 Km from Chora,a head-village with an excellent view.

In the narrow streets of Palaiopolis village to the West of Andros, everything is whitewashed in the classic Cyclades tradition.

The people here,as in the whole of the Aegean region, have used the most common of materials: the crystalline limestone found everywhere. They perfected the art of balancing the stones without mortar to build boundaries, terraces to prevent erosion, huts to shelter herds and herdsmen and "pigeon towers" for...yes...their prized pigeon flocks.

Late afternoon ,the wind comes from the South bringing humidity and low clouds.The stone pigeon tower stands alone.

Just two hours by ship from the harbor of Rafina-a few Km from Athens' airport-Andros stood apart from the rest of the Cyclades for decades. It's men traditionaly traveled the seven seas, sending money back home. So, Andros never really had to go after the tourist industry. Most of the visitors are Greeks, although some travellers have already discovered and fallen in love with the beaches and the well kept trekking paths. There are excellent places to stay near the sea, but if you want to enjoy the green heart of Andros, choose one of the new small hotels in or around Chora. Oh, and visit the island during the peaceful and cool season, that is Spring or Fall.

View from our veranda at Armonia Resort in Menites, towards Chora and the sea.Στη βεράντα μας, στο Αρμονια Resort, στις Μενητες, αγναντεύουμε τη Χώρα. Ωρα για άλλον έναν καφέ!

 

Πρωινό στα Πρασσα/ Morning in Kimolos

The sun is rising just across our bedroom window! A wonderful morning and a delicious breakfast are on their way!!!
Bring it on!!

Δεύτερο καλοκαίρι στα Πράσσα της Κιμώλου,για δεύτερη φορά στα καταπληκτικά στούντιο της "Κιμώλιας γης" και ετοιμοι να εφορμήσουμε στον μπουφέ που ετοιμάζει με τα χεράκια της η κυρία Οδηγήτρια!

Our landlady, Odigitria, has the buffet ready:Eggs from the village hens,rice pudding made from the goats' fresh milk, a cake she just baked, marmalades and Kimolos's famous honey,Manury cheese made by her father,master George,fruits,yogurt and-the best of the best-"ladenia", a local pizza with onions and tomatoes!!!

Αυγά απο κότες αλανιάρες,μανούρι απο τα χεράκια του μπάρμπα Γιώργου,μαρμελάδες και κεηκ πού φτιάχνει η Οδηγήτρια,ρυζόγαλο,φρούτα,μέλι Κιμωλιάτικο και "λαδένια" η απίστευτη πίτσα του νησιού με κρεμμυδάκι και ντομάτες απο το διπλανό περιβόλι!!!

While we're having breakfast,Giorgos,the older kitten is taking a much needed nap...he gets tired just by breathing,poor thing :p so he sleeps like a log 24/7!
In contrast,his younger brother,Tony, is always on red alert just in case there is a cheeky mouse around! He may be only a few months old but he is already a seasoned mouse-hunter!!

We first met their mother,Kate,last summer. She appeared from the fields one day,took a look around and decided this was to be her home! The land lady wasn't too happy about it,so we were a bit apprehensive about the cats wellbeing. But,Kate managed to warm herself into Odigitria's heart and is now the acknowledged mistress of the "Kimolia gi" hotel :) 

  Η γατο-οικογένεια του ξενοδοχείου ξεκίνησε πέρσυ το καλοκαίρι,όταν μια γατούλα,η Καίτη εμφανίστηκε απο το πουθενά και αποφάσισε να εγκατασταθεί! Παρά τις αρχικές αντιρρήσεις της Οδηγήτριας,η μικρή οχι μόνο έμεινε,αλλά εφερε και τους δύο της γιούς,τον Γιώργο και τον Τόνυ.Ο Γιώργος,κουρασμένος εκ γεννετής δεν βγαίνει απο το αγαπημένο του καλάθι,ο μικρός,ο Τονυ ειναι ηδη φοβερός και τρομερός κυνηγός ποντικών!

Time to meet the other neighbors...Just a few steps away,the horses,mother and son graze on a field. We come prepared with treats :lots of carrots and apples and of course they love it!

Μια ξερολιθιά παραπάνω καινούργιοι γείτονες,τα άλογα του βοσκού,μανα και γιός! Τα απογεύματα τα φιλεύουμε καρότα και μήλα:)
 

Up the hill,on the road to the main settlement of Horio ,two of the island's most treasured workers! Donkeys,once a common sight everywhere in Greece,are now found only in small villages,where old men prefer to ride them to the fields instead of driving a car.
 

Γαϊδουράκια στο νησί άφθονα. Οι γεροντότεροι τα προτιμούν απο τα αυτοκίνητα! Αλλωστε οι περισσότεροι εχουν μια απίστευτη σχεση αγαπης-μισους με τον γαϊδαρο τους,σαν τον παππού πού ερχεται τα ξημερώματα να ποτίσει τα ζωντανα του και βρίζει απολαυστικά το ατίθασο υποζύγιο!


Just a stone fence away from our room our landlady's goats.
Lady Maria,her mother, comes every evening to milk them.
We know she is on her way when the goats start running towards the little stone hut...

"Come ,my darling,be a good girl and stay still!",
we can hear her coaxing the unruly ones :)
Η γιαγιά Μαρία-μητερα της σπιτονοικοκυράς μας,αρμέγει κάθε απογευματάκι τις κατσίκες της απέναντι απο το δωμάτιο μας. Και τους γλυκομιλάει για να καθίσουν φρόνιμες "ελα αγάπη μου,έλα κορίτσι μου,μην κάνει αταξίες". Το γάλα τους σερβίρεται στο πρωινό!

Noon is here.The NATURA reserve island of Polyaegos is simmering across the bay and it's about time to hit the road to the best beach of the island-and one of the finest in the Cyclades:
The White beach of Prassa!!!

Η μερα μεστώνει,ώρα να την κάνουμε για την ωραιότερη παραλία του νησιού,τα Πράσσα, παρεα με τα βιβλία μας. Στο οργανωμενο κομματι της κάτασπρης αμμου ο Παναγιώτης φτιάχνει-εκτός ολων των άλλων-τον καλύτερο εσπρέσο του νησιού.
Το στούντιο,δροσερό και απλόχωρο θα μας περιμένει να επιστρέψουμε!!!
Δεν υπάρχει τελειότερο σκηνικό για να "αδειάσουν" τα μυαλά και να γεμισουν οι μπαταρίες :)

 

The room will be cleaned and ready for an afternoon nap when we get back...*sigh* I wonder why do I absolutely love it here!!!!

PS Prassa beach will have to wait for the next post:)

 

Sailing to Kimolos/Τσιτσο,το λιμανι φευγει!!

After spending the hot summer months in Athens,we finally embarked on our vacations journey to Kimolos!!!

What a joy to leave the harbor of Piraeus and all the bustle and hustle of traffic and city noise behind us!!

In recent years the journey to the Cyclades is done with new type fast ferries,all luxury,air conditioning etc BUT there isn't a place to sit and enjoy the sea crossing on deck.In fact there is no deck.It feels like traveling on a large airplane to be honest.
So,old,open deck ferry for us and our beloved scooter!!
I can lean against the rail -with an occasional cigarette on my hand (shame on me)-and gaze for hours at the foaming trail of the ship's propellers :)

Can't help remembering a little first-grade poem about the Greek flag:
"My country's flag is blue like the sea
and white like the foam!"

Very few passengers on board,mostly couples -old and young-and of course four legged darlings having a wonderful time. Since the ship is far from full,pets-mostly dogs-can spend the trip outside the special cages. I hate the sight of dogs on deck inside the cages-mandatory when the ship is crowded -and I hate ships where the cages are leaning on the hot hot metal of the chimney.
I often pick up a fight with the captain about it!!!

Some fellow passengers enjoy a little nap in the sun and Rex the German Sheppard is keeping an eye on the luggage ;)

It took us 8 hours on choppy waters to reach Kimolos but who's complaining? Meltemia,the annual strong Northern winds,have been particularly persistent this year and I love the way they stir the Aegean! As we say,they fill the sea with flocks of little white sheep!

The sun is heading to the West and we are getting near our destination.The ship made stops in Serifos,Sifnos,Folegandros and then -leaving the NATURA protected uninhabited island of Polyaegos behind-is heading for Milos and small Kimolos!!!!!

Spectacular Santorini

First time I saw the caldera was a summer night  in 1972. 
More than 12 hours after sailing from Piraeus,the old passenger ship arrived at the small Athinio harbor of Santorini. It was too dark to see anything. I remember hanging for dear life at the back of an open truck negotiating the steep winding one lane road to the top.
The next morning I saw the black and red cliffs of  Santorini ,queen of Cyclades and most spectacular of the islands of the Aegean Sea.
And I was thunderstruck!

Kameni as seen from the top of the Caldera cliffs.

Santorini,some 40 years ago was not yet developed as it is nowadays. We spend a wonderful summer in a small house near the beach in Kamari,with petrol lamps at night and a donkey who loved to spend his afternoons in the living room (can't argue with a donkey...)

Rumor had it among the villagers,that an archaeologist from Athens was excavating for some years at a site called Akrotiri-Cape-where he hoped to find a very ancient city covered by volcanic ash.

The black sanded beach in Kamari,at the outer rim of the island where all the nice beaches are.

Santorini is the crater of a powerful underwater volcano which erupted 3.600 years ago. The island was originally round with a volcano in the middle.When it erupted, sea water rushed into the crater and created the caldera. 

The explosion was one of the three strongest in human history, creating a tsunami and an ash cloud that devastated Eastern Mediterranean. 

Today -right in the middle of the caldera -the volcano,still alive, has created a small lava island-Kameni- which is slowly becoming larger.

Detail of one of the frescoes of Akrotiri. A celebration . Boats sail among dolphins,a large city and a river or canal can be seen. At the top stags run chased by a panther.


The plus magic of Santorini is that-the late- Professor Marinatos did find his city!!!!
Α very large, splendid and highly civilized complex of two and three storied houses,paved streets,a complete sewerage and drainage system and a twin water supply network-one for hot and one for cold water!!(we are talking about 3000-1614 BC :0  the hot water,so say the experts,might have come from geothermic hot springs ).

It was a wealthy and sophisticated society of farmers, fishermen, merchants, artists,potters and weavers, who loved to travel and trade and decorated their homes with stunning frescoes. The cultural influence of the wealthy and powerful Minoan Crete,ruler of Eastern Med at the time, is evident. 

Only the southern part ,that is only 3% of Akrotiri has so far been excavated.
It will take decades to complete the study.

For years the exact date of the eruption was debated.A few years ago a Danish University's carbon isotope analysis of a petrified olive tree found in the excavations, pinpointed the date at 1613 or 1614 BC.

It was late Spring /early Summer -in the ash they found olive tree pollen-and the inhabitants must have been forewarned either by a smaller eruption or an earthquake,or both.

Unlike Pompeii, so far no human or animal remains were found, no items of any value were left , except one small golden figurine of a wild goat. It seems the people took to their ships and fled, but we will never know if they escaped the tsunami too.

Like Minoan Cretans,the artists in Akrotiri had a passion with marine life and all kinds of animals.

It's been a widely spread theory among archaeologists ,that the lost civilization of Santorini had inspired Plato to tell the story of Atlantis. Atlantis too-some say- was an exceptionally advanced society, a round island state ,with a canal. Like ancient Santorini it was destroyed and sunk beneath the sea etc etc...but we will never know for sure if good old Santorini is the mythical place after all.

One of the most intriguing frescoes:Blue monkeys climbing on rocks.

Sadly,the special cover,build in 2004 to protect the excavations collapsed under heavy rains. But,I found out that the new cover is   already in place and in a year or so the site will open again for visitors!!

Now,this is a pool after my own heart ;]

Santorini is now easy to reach by fast ferries and plane, fully developed and dedicated to tourists. It's full of 5+ star hotels and spas or modest low budget rooms to let, uber romantic restaurants,bars and clubs of all kinds, beaches and sea sports and crowds of people having fun.

Best of times May,June,September,when you can have the place to yourself...well,almost.

It is the most beautiful and awesome of Greek islands...but I'm more intrigued by what lies beneath hundreds of meters of lava...what more will we learn about the people who lived and loved in this small piece of land since 3.000 BC...*sigh*  I wish I had studied archaeology. I should be down there digging!!!

Sifnos, for the travellers

One of the countless little churches of Sifnos.

When the weather is clear in May, we can glimpse from the patio, far to the South, the glittering blue of the sea and the passenger ships sailing to and from Piraeus. 
It wakens the wander-lust in us just looking at them ;] So it's the right time to start planning our summer vacations !!! And for us, the planning part is as much fun as the actual trip.
We will not visit Sifnos this year, but come,let me tell you about "her" (almost all Greek islands have a female name).

The ship is ready to dock in Kamares.

Sifnos belongs to the west Cyclades and to the select group of the not small ,but low profile Greek Islands. It's not spectacular or beloved by the party crowds or the jet set, but wins you over with an eccentric peacefulness. 
Not many foreigners know Sifnos, so it still is an unexplored paradise.

Heronisos.In Greece when we ask for "a table near the sea" this is what we mean :]

It is one of the easy- to- travel -to destinations both by fast ferries and by the regular open ships. It takes 3,5 hours from Athens/Piraeus with the fast one and a bit more than 5 hours with the old-and much cheaper-ships.

The island has 2.500 inhabitants, the best pottery makers in the Aegean,fantastic food and the softest light I' ve ever seen in this part of the world.

Everything is soft in Sifnos, from the small port of Kamares, to the lazy pace of everyday life. Some 10 Km from the port are the twin villages of Apollonia and Artemonas-named after Apollo and his twin sister Artemis.

View of the port,Kamares, from the church of St. Symeon on a hill 490 m high.

Sifnos is unassuming and quite but lacks nothing. 

You want bars and night-life? You've got it. Secluded coves and interesting trekking? You've got it. Fine places to dine? Oh baby,you've got it!! (The legendary Greek chef Tselemendes was born in Sifnos and every cook on the island tries to live up to the tradition!)
You want to stay someplace nice and cheap?You prefer five star luxury? There are rooms ,hotels and a couple of high end resorts to fit any budget.

Apollonia 

Contrary to smaller islands like my beloved Anafi there is a lot to see around Sifnos: The old town of Kastro,the island's capital from  ancient times until about 200 years ago, idyllic Heronisos to the north, windmills and more churches than you can visit-around 350 of them! 

An old narrow street in Kastro.
 And a local feline taking an extended nap in the coolness of a roofed passageway.

In short, Sifnos is not for the tourist ,but for the traveller,who will get to learn all her secrets and slowly but surely fall in love.

And it is also strategically placed in the ships' routes ,for some island-hopping, if you feel ready for a change of scenery...